Brand activism in search for an ethical communication leader: Vivienne Westwood and the clashes between person and brand
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.7433/s125.2024.08Keywords:
Brand Activism, leadership, strategic communication;Abstract
Frame of the research: This paper builds on the recent, fast-growing body of literature on brand activism to explore how brand leaders construct themselves as activists in contemporary society and the challenges they face inherent to their roles.
Purpose of the paper: The aim of our paper is to shed light on how the cultural tensions of being a socio-political activist and an iconic fashion entrepreneur in contemporary society of consumer movements and collective agitations are constructed and amplified in social media platforms.
Methodology: We developed an in-depth critical case centered on Vivienne Westwood as person, leader, and brand. We adopted a netnographic research design that combined a diachronic, retrospective, auto-biographical reconstruction of Vivienne Westwood’s life story, with non-participant observation of online posts, conversations and comments centered on Westwood as person and as brand, shared on social media platforms.
Results: Our study highlights a series of clashes that arise when an activist leader does not act as a true ethical leader of meanings and does not use communication as a strategic lever to transform society through listening to, engaging and fine-tuning with stakeholders, but rather indulges in a self-referential attitude aimed at giving full expression to her changing moods, needs, and desires.
Practical implications: This paper highlights the challenges of being an activist leader and brand in contemporary woke society. In so doing, it provides strategic guidelines on how communication should be conceived in the company to achieve ethical leadership and overcome cultural tensions.
Originality of the paper: This paper contributes to advance brand and CEO activism as well as strategic communication theoretical debate, through explicitly linking the tensions and the clashes between authentic purpose and commodified market logics emerging in social media platforms to a lack of exercise of ethical communication leadership on the part of the brand leader.
References
AFEGO P., ALAGIDEDE I. (2022), “CEO statements on racial inequity-(How) do they matter to shareholders?”, Society and Business Review, vol. 17, n. 2, pp. 236-256.
AHMAD F., GUZMA’N F., AL-EMRAN M. (2024), “Brand activism and the consequences of woke washing”, Journal of Business Research, vol. 170, C, 114362.
ANDERSEN S.E., JOHANSEN T.S. (2023), “The activist brand and the trans-formational power of resistance: Towards a narrative conceptualframework”, Journal of Brand Management, vol. 31, n. 2, pp. 140-152.
APPELS M. (2023), “CEO sociopolitical activism as a signal of authentic leadership to prospective employees”, Journal of Management, vol. 49, n. 8, pp. 2727-2765.
BEDENDO M., SIMING L. (2021), “To advocate or not to advocate: Determinants and financial consequences of CEO activism”, British Journal of Management, vol. 32, n. 4, pp. 1062-1081.
BEHNAM M., MACLEAN T.L. (2011), “Where is the accountability in international accountability standards?: A decoupling perspective”, Business Ethics Quarterly, vol. 21, n. 1, pp. 45-72.
BOEKER W. (1989), “The development and institutionalization of subunit power in organizations”, Administrative Science Quarterly, vol. 34, n. 3, pp. 388-410.
BROWN L.W., MANEGOLD J.G., MARQUARDT D.J. (2020), “The effects of CEO activism on employees person-organization ideological misfit: A conceptual model and research agenda”, Business and Society Review, vol. 125, n. 1, pp. 119-141.
BURBANO V.C. (2021), “The demotivating effects of communicating a social-political stance: Field experimental evidence from an online labor market platform”, Management Science, vol. 67, n. 2, pp. 1004-1025.
CAMMAROTA A., D’ARCO M., MARINO V., RESCINITI R. (2023), “BRAND ACTIVISM: A Literature Review and Future Research Agenda”, International Journal of Consumer Studies, vol. 47, n. 5, pp. 1669-1691.
CHATTERJI A.K., TOFFEL M.W. (2019), “Assessing the impact of CEO activism”, Organization and Environment, vol. 32, n. 2, pp. 159-185.
CHATTERJI A.K., TOFFEL M. (2015), “Starbucks’ “Race Together” campaign and the upside of CEO activism”, Harvard Business Review. Available online: https://hbr.org/2015/03/starbucks-race-together-campaign-and-the-upside-of-ceo-activism
CHATTERJI A.K., TOFFEL M.W. (2018), “The new CEO activists”, Harvard Business Review, vol. 47, pp. 47-65.
CHERNEV A., BLAIR S. (2015), “Doing well by doing good: The benevolent halo of corporate social responsibility”, Journal of Consumer Research, vol. 41, n. 6, pp. 1412-1425.
CLARKE J.S., HOLT R. (2016), “Vivienne Westwood and the ethics of consuming fashion”, Journal of Management Inquiry, vol. 25, n. 2, pp. 199-213.
COOMBS W.T., HOLLADAY S.J. (2018), “Social issue qua wicked problems: The role of strategic communication in social issues management”, Journal of Communication Management, vol. 22, n. 1, pp. 79-95.
COYNE I.T. (1997), “Sampling in qualitative research. Purposeful and theoretical sampling; merging or clear boundaries?”, Journal of Advanced Nursing, vol. 26, n. 3, pp. 623-630.
DEBORD. G. (1967), La Societé du Spectacle Paris, Buchet-Chastel, Paris.
DE BREE M., STOOPENDAAL A. (2020), “De-and recoupling and public regulation”, Organization Studies, vol. 41, n. 5, pp. 599-620.
DOWELL E., JACKSON M. (2020), “Woke-washing your company won’t cut it”, Harvard Business Review, vol. 27, pp. 1-7.
EVANS C., THORNTON M. (1991), “Fashion, representation, femininity”, Feminist Review, vol. 38, n. 1, pp. 48-66.
EYADA B. (2020), “Brand activism, the relation and impact on consumer perception: A case study on Nike advertising”, International Journal of Marketing Studies, vol. 12, n. 4, pp. 30-42.
FALKHEIMER J. (2014), “The power of strategic communication in organizational development”, International Journal of Quality and Service Sciences, vol. 6, n. 2/3, pp. 124-133
FETSCHERIN M. (2015), “The CEO branding mix”, Journal of Business Strategy, vol. 36, n. 6, pp. 22-28.
GAMBETTI R.C., BIRAGHI S. (2023), “Branded activism: Navigating the tension between culture and market in social media”, Futures, vol. 145, pp. 1-21.
HALLAHAN K., HOLTZHAUSEN D., VAN RULER B., VERČIČ D., SRIRAMESH K. (2007), “Defining strategic communication”, International Journal of Strategic Communication, vol. 1, n. 1, pp. 3-35.
HALLAHAN K. (2011), “Political public relations and strategic framing”, Political public relations: Principles and applications, vol. 177, n. 213, pp. 177-213.
HAMBRICK D.C., WOWAK A.J. (2021), “CEO sociopolitical activism: A stakeholder alignment model”, The Academy of Management Review, vol. 46, n. 1, pp. 33-59.
HOLTZHAUSEN D.R., VOTO R. (2002), “Resistance from the margins: The postmodern public relations practitioner as organizational activist”, Journal of Public Relations Research, vol. 14, n. 1, pp. 57-84.
HOLTZHAUSEN D.R., ZERFASS A. (2014), The Routledge Handbook of Strategic Communication, Routledge, London.
HOLTZHAUSEN D.R. (2013), Public relations as activism: Postmodern approaches to theory and practice, Routledge, London.
HOU Y., POLIQUIN C.W. (2023), “The effects of CEO activism: Partisan consumer behavior and its duration”, Strategic Management Journal, vol. 44, n. 3, pp. 672-703.
INVERNIZZI E., ROMENTI S. (2014), “Adopting an entrepreneurial perspective in the study of strategic communication”, in Holtzhausen D., Zerfass A., (edited by) The Routledge Handbook of Strategic Communication (pp. 214-228), Routledge, London.
INVERNIZZI E., ROMENTI S. (2011), “Strategic communication and decision-making processes: Toward the communication oriented organization”, Academicus. International Scientific Journal, vol. 3, n. 3, pp. 12-27.
KATZ G. (2010), “Vivienne Westwood: “Stop buying clothes”, The Huffington Post, , vol. 23, 2010. Retrieved from: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/02/21/vivienne-westwood-stop-bu_n_470839.html
KEY T.M., KEEL A.L., CZAPLEWSKI A.J., OLSON E.M. (2021), “Brand activism change agents: Strategic storytelling for impact and authenticity”, Journal of Strategic Marketing, , vol. 31, n. 7, pp. 1339-1355.
KOZINETS R.V. (2020), Netnography: The essential guide to qualitative social media research, Sage Publications, London.
LUO X., BHATTACHARYA C.B. (2009), “The debate over doing good: Corporate social performance, strategic marketing levers, and firm-idiosyncratic risk”, Journal of Marketing, vol. 73, n. 6, pp. 198-213.
MACLEAN T.L. BEHNAM M. (2010), “The dangers of decoupling: The relationship between compliance programs, legitimacy perceptions, and institutionalized misconduct”, Academy of Management Journal, vol. 53, no. 6, pp. 1499-1520.
MELLONI G., PATACCONI A., VIKANDER N. (2023), “Cashing in on the culture wars? CEO activism, wokewashing, and firm value”, Strategic Management Journal, vol. 44, n. 13, pp. 3098-3121.
MEYER J., ROWAN B. (1991), “Institutionalized organizations: formal structure as myth and ceremony”, In Dimaggio P., Powell W. (Eds), The New Institutionalism in Organizational Analysis (pp .1-41), Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
MIRZAEI A., WILKIE D.C., SIUKI H. (2022), “Woke brand activism authenticity or the lack of it”, Journal of Business Research, vol. 139, pp. 1-12.
MOORMAN C. (2020), “Commentary: Brand activism in a political world”, Journal of Public Policy and Marketing, vol. 39, n. 4, pp. 388-392.
MUKHERJEE S., ALTHUIZEN N. (2020), “Brand activism: Does courting controversy help or hurt a brand?”, International Journal of Research in Marketing, vol. 37, n. 4, pp. 772-788.
NAM J., BALAKRISHNAN M., DE FREITAS J., BROOKS A.W. (2023), “Speedy activists: how firm response time to sociopolitical events influences consumer behavior”, Journal of Consumer Psychology, vol. 33, n. 4, pp. 632-644.
ONWUEGBUZIE A.J., LEECH N.L. (2007), “A call for qualitative power analyses”, Quality and Quantity, vol. 41, n. 1, pp. 105-121.
PIMENTEL P.C., BASSI-SUTER M., DIDONET S.R. (2024), “Brand activism as a marketing strategy: an integrative framework and research agenda”, Journal of Brand Management, vol. 31, n. 2, pp. 212-234.
RIM H., LEE Y., YOO S. (2020), “Polarized public opinion responding to corporate social advocacy: Social network analysis of boycotters and advocators”, Public Relations Review, vol. 46, n. 2, 101869.
ROHMANUE A., JACOBI E.S. (2024), “The influence of marketing communications agencies on activist brands’ moral competency development and ability to engage in authentic brand activism: Wieden+ Kennedy ‘Just Does It’”, Journal of Brand Management, vol. 31, n. 2, pp. 126-139.
ROMENTI S. (2010), “Reputation and stakeholder engagement: an Italian case study”, Journal of Communication Management, vol. 14, n. 4, pp. 306-318.
SARKAR C. (2018), “The Case for Brand Activism”, The Marketing Journal (November 15), Available online https://www.marketingjournal.org/the-case-for-brand-activism-a-discussion-with-philipkotler-and-christian-sarkar/.
SAVAGE J. (1991), England’s Dreaming: Sex Pistols and Punk Rock, St Martin’s Press, London.
SCHMIDT H.J., IND N., GUZMAN F., KENNEDY E. (2022), “Sociopolitical activist brands”, Journal of Product and Brand Management, vol. 31, n. 1, pp. 40-55.
SIBAI O., MIMOUN L., BOUKIS A. (2021), “Authenticating brand activism: Negotiating the boundaries of free speech to make a change”, Psychology and Marketing, vol. 38, n. 10, pp. 1651-1669.
STERBENK Y.M., WARD J., LUTTRELL R., SHELTON S. (2022), “Silence has no place: a framing analysis of corporate statements about racial inequity, immigration policy and LGBTQ rights”, Corporate Communications: An International Journal, vol. 27, n. 2, pp. 404-421.
THOMPSON C.J., POLLIO H.R., LOCANDER W.B. (1994), “The spoken and the unspoken: a hermeneutic approach to understanding the cultural viewpoints that underlie consumers’ expressed meanings”, Journal of Consumer Research, vol. 21, n. 3, pp. 432-452.
VERIDIANO R. (2018), “Vivienne Westwood: activist or queen of greenwash?”, Remake.world.com. Accessible online: https://remake.world/stories/news/vivienne-westwood-denounces-her-new-documentary-for-not-telling-her-activist-story-but-do-her-actions-speak-as-loud-as-her-words/
VERLEGH P.W.J. (2024), “Perspectives: a research-based guide for brand activism”, International Journal of Advertising, vol. 43, n. 2, pp. 388-402.
VILLAGRA N., MONFORT A., MÉNDEZ-SUÁREZ M. (2021), “Firm value impact of corporate activism: Facebook and the stop hate for profit campaign”, Journal of Business Research, vol. 137, pp. 319-326.
VITULLI S.M., GHINI G. (2024), Ceo branding in the global reputation economy, Bocconi University Press, Milan
VREDENBURG J., KAPITAN S., SPRY A., KEMPER J.A. (2020), “Brands taking a stand: Authentic brand activism or woke washing?”, Journal of Public Policy and Marketing, vol. 39, n. 4, pp. 444-460.
WANNON S., HAUPT M., OHLWEIN M. (2024), “Is brand activism an emotional affair? The role of moral emotions in consumer response to brand activism”, Journal of Brand Management, vol. 31, n. 2, pp. 168-192.
WASTON L. (2019), “Everything is connected: the influences and inspirations of global icon, activist, and radical fashion philosopher, Vivienne Westwood”, 21st IFFTI Annual Conference - Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester, United Kingdom, 8-12 April.
WESTPHAL J.D., ZAJAC E.J. (2001), “Decoupling policy from practice: The case of stock repurchase programs”, Administrative Science Quarterly, vol. 46, n. 2, pp. 202-228.
WESTWOOD V., KELLY I. (2014), Vivienne Westwood, Pan Macmillan, London.
WITHERSPOON P.D. (1997), Communicating leadership: An organizational perspective, Pearson, London.
ZERFASS A., HUCK S. (2007), “Innovation, communication, and leadership: New developments in strategic communication”, International Journal of Strategic Communication, vol. 1, n. 2, pp. 107-122.
ZETLAOUI L. (2019), Ethical Fashion series: the legendary Vivienne Westwood, Numero.com. Accessible online: https://www.numero.com/en/fashion-0/ethical-fashion-vivienne-westwood-climate-change-eco-friendly-fabrics-sustainable